A few weeks ago I completed the install of my racelogic traction control after a week of diagnosing problems with it. I had a three stage problem with mine. First I had a tiny block of broken glass from a window in the bottom of the main unit's connector which of course caused some connector opens and I didn't notice until I finally started taking things apart (oh, side thought, but I'm pretty sure the glass came from my rear hatch. I believe the paint shop I had working for my broke my hatch glass and replaced it without telling me. They did a pretty good job hiding the fact, but I've got pieces of glass rattling in my hatch, some glass around my spare, and the glass in the connector. The smoking gun is that I lizard skinned the whole car, so I had the interior stripped to the sheet metal and there was NO glass rattling around before I took it to them). Ok, back to business. Second, when racelogic says the unit needs a 12v switched supply that DOESN'T drop out during cranking, THEY MEAN IT! lol! Finally, the nice little LCD controller for the TC unit IS NOT plug and play with the racelogic wiring for the simple controller. The LCD controller requires 12v instead of the TC Unit's supplied 5v. This is mentioned somewhat as an afterthought halfway through the god awful manual. Oh well. The unit is now installed, calibrated, tested, and working 100%. I'm very impressed with it so far. Oh, the panel I mounted the LCD controller to (double sided tape) is a nissan part = 6847060M00. The surface mount LED is for calibration purposes and was something I bought off of mouser.com