Unfortunately, the plug wires weren't the end of the issues the dyno uncovered. Both fried plugs were located on the passenger side on cylinders 4 and 6. Anyone with a functional heater and AC knows how cramped that side gets. For me it was even worse because I had the bright idea to run my battery lead through the header primaries with 3 layers of fiberglass insulation. The battery cable crowded the wire on cylinder 6 and the dipstick crowded the wire on cylinder 4. Both areas were packed enough that the plug wire insulators made lite contact with the primaries. Even with the insulation and the ceramic coated primaries, the contact was the breaking point. Any contact is going to result in a bad time.
When I got home from the dyno I found that the battery lead didn't fare any better; even with 3 layers of fiberglass sleeve made to withstand 1000 degrees. After finding the damage to the spark plug wires Erin told me it was something to look at ASAP. I wasn't really concerned about it shorting out so I made the trip home simply because fiberglass is a very good insulator and I knew it wasn't going to burn up even with direct contact with the primaries. That plus the fact that my battery lead is fused (yes, I'm one of the guys that says you should still fuse your battery lead despite what other people say) made me comfortable that the car wouldn't short and burn down. Still, I knew it was something that needed attention and this is what I found when I got home and the following pics show how I worked to create a new route for the battery cable.
I had a few more loose ends to tie up like re-installing my spark plug wires, aiming my headlights, and doing a thorough clean, but honestly this build had come to an end in May of 2016 and I had successfully completed my vision for this project.